The Pennine Way begins at Edale, heading west across farm fields towards the River Noe before the steep climb up Jacob's Ladder onto Kinder Scout. The route traverses the edge of the vast peat plateau past Kinder Low and Kinder Downfall, a dramatic waterfall that often blows back upwards in strong winds. After Mill Hill the path drops to the Snake Pass road and climbs onto Bleaklow Head at 633 metres, where stone slabs have improved the worst of the boggy ground. The descent through rough pasture to Torside Reservoir is welcome relief after a demanding moorland crossing. Accommodation at Torside requires a short taxi or a 3.5km walk along the Longdendale Trail to Padfield.
From Crowden the trail climbs north through rough pasture and onto Black Hill at 582 metres, a notorious peat summit where flagstone paving has tamed the worst of the bog. The terrain is exposed and featureless, but expansive views open out across the Pennine moorlands when the weather allows. The route descends across boggy ground to the A635 at Wessenden Head, then drops into Wessenden Valley — a quieter stretch with reservoirs strung below moorland slopes. Generally firm underfoot, the path passes Wessenden Reservoir before reaching Blakeley Reservoir. There is no accommodation at the reservoir itself; a short trail detour of around 3km leads to Marsden, where the New Inn offers a bed for the night.
The trail climbs steadily across moorland past Black Moss Reservoir, with flagstones easing the wettest sections, before descending to the A62 near Brunclough Reservoir. From here the route ascends onto Millstone Edge, following a gritstone escarpment with extensive views, then continues over White Hill at 467 metres and across rough grass and peat to the M62, crossed by a long footbridge. Beyond the motorway the path climbs Blackstone Edge (472m), where a stretch of Roman flagstones runs near the summit. After dropping to the historic White House inn, the trail follows the shores of Blackstone Edge and Warland Reservoirs before climbing to Stoodley Pike at 400 metres, crowned by the tall 1856 monument with commanding Calderdale views.
From Stoodley Pike a steep descent leads through woodland and fields, with an optional drop into Hebden Bridge for refreshments. The trail crosses the Rochdale Canal at Charlestown then climbs sharply through walled lanes to Colden Water, spanned by a 17th-century clapper bridge. After more steep climbing the route eases over Heptonstall Moor and passes Gorple Lower Reservoir, joining the service road across the Walshaw Dean Reservoirs. A pull onto Withins Height (450m) leads to the ruined farmhouse of Top Withens, the reputed inspiration for Wuthering Heights. The path descends across Stanbury Moor with panoramic views ahead, dropping past farms to Ponden Reservoir, where the Old Silent Inn provides accommodation just off the trail.
A short, restorative day. From Ponden Reservoir the route climbs steeply onto Old Bess Hill, gaining height quickly with sweeping views back across the water and surrounding moors. The path traverses Ickornshaw Moor on flagstones laid through the heather, passing the dark wooden shooting huts known locally as 'Cowlings' that punctuate the moorland. Once the trail drops off the open ground it threads through enclosed farmland on a network of tracks and field paths bordered by stone walls. The descent crosses the A6068 at Ickornshaw and finishes at Cowling, a small village with shops, a pub and basic facilities. With under five hours of walking, this is a useful day for resting tired legs early in the trail.
Another easier day continues through rolling countryside south of the Yorkshire Dales. The path crosses enclosed fields with numerous stiles before dropping into Lothersdale, a charming village with a working mill and the Hare and Hounds pub for a midday stop. Beyond Lothersdale the route climbs steadily alongside Stansfield Beck and onto Elslack Moor, ascending through heather to Pinhaw Beacon at 388 metres. The trig-pointed beacon was raised in the early 1800s as a Napoleonic-era warning post, and on a clear day the views stretch to Pen-y-ghent and Ingleborough. From the summit the path descends gradually through moorland and across drumlin-shaped pasture to the small settlement of Thornton in Craven. Glamping is available locally but options are limited.
From Thornton in Craven the path crosses undulating farmland to meet the Leeds and Liverpool Canal near East Marton, briefly adopting the towpath beneath the unusual double-arched bridge. Leaving the canal at Williamson Bridge the route climbs Scaleber Hill with widening views before descending to Gargrave, a busy village on the A65 with shops, pubs and the renowned Dalesman Café. Crossing the canal again the trail enters the Yorkshire Dales National Park proper, traversing Eshton Moor and dropping to the River Aire. A pleasant riverside walk leads through pretty Airton and on to Malham, the day's destination. The village offers good accommodation and easy access to Malham Cove, Janet's Foss and the dramatic limestone walls of Gordale Scar.
A long, scenically rich day in the heart of the Dales. Stone steps climb the western flank of Malham Cove to its 80-metre rim, where the path crosses the iconic limestone pavement with its deep grikes. Beyond Malham Tarn the trail heads north past Tennant Gill Farm and over the shoulder of Fountains Fell before descending into Silverdale. Then comes the steep, rocky ascent of Pen-y-ghent at 694 metres — one of Yorkshire's Three Peaks — with expansive summit views over the Dales. A long descent through rough pasture and walled fields drops into Horton-in-Ribblesdale on the Settle-Carlisle railway, where the famous Pen-y-ghent Café traditionally clocks walkers in and out and offers full village facilities for the night.
The path follows a walled track north from Horton, climbing steadily towards Birkwith Moor and onto Harber Scar Lane — an old packhorse route — before reaching the wooded ravine of Ling Gill, spanned by its slender stone bridge. Beyond, the route climbs onto Cam Fell and joins Cam High Road, a Roman road shared briefly with the Dales Way, traversing broad open ridges with empty far-reaching views. West Cam Road then hugs the slopes of Dodd Fell at 648 metres above the Snaizeholme Valley. At Ten End the trail drops down the grassy ridge of Rottenstone Hill into the village of Gayle, with its attractive waterfall, before a flagged riverside path leads into the lively market town of Hawes.
From Hawes the route crosses the flood plain of the River Ure on flagstones to Hardraw, where access through the Green Dragon pub leads to Hardraw Force — England's highest single-drop waterfall at 30 metres. The trail then begins the long, steady climb onto Great Shunner Fell at 716 metres, the highest point so far on the Pennine Way. The ascent follows an old miners' track before striking across open moorland for some 8 kilometres to a large summit cairn, much of the route paved across the boggiest ground. The descent drops into upper Swaledale and the small village of Thwaite, then crosses the side of Kisdon Hill with spectacular dale views before reaching Keld for the night.
A shorter, gentler day. From Keld the route ascends Stonesdale, climbing steadily onto open moorland of heather and peat dotted with traditional stone field barns. The terrain is often wet and boggy, but the going is generally straightforward. The trail reaches the Tan Hill Inn at 528 metres — the highest pub in the British Isles, standing in splendid isolation on the moor and a famous landmark of the trail. Beyond Tan Hill the path enters the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, crossing exposed undulating terrain past the scattered farms of Sleightholme to Trough Heads. Accommodation here means a 5km detour off the trail to Bowes, a historic village built around the remains of a Roman fort.
From Trough Heads the path drops to God's Bridge, a natural limestone arch spanning the River Greta, then crosses rough moorland and passes beneath the busy A66 through a tunnel. The trail traverses Cotherstone Moor and descends to Blackton Reservoir, marking the approximate halfway point of the entire Pennine Way. The route continues past Grassholme and Selset Reservoirs, the landscape characterised by moorland valleys and heather-clad hills. Beyond the reservoirs the path crosses moorland near Harter Fell before descending gradually through walled farmland into the valley of the River Tees. The day finishes in the small market town of Middleton-in-Teesdale, a comfortable resupply point with a good range of shops, pubs and accommodation.
A relatively easy day with outstanding scenery. The route follows the south bank of the River Tees upstream from Middleton, the valley becoming steadily more dramatic. The first highlight is Low Force, where the river cascades over the dark Whin Sill rock in a series of falls. Continuing upstream the trail reaches High Force, one of England's most spectacular waterfalls, plunging 21 metres in a single drop over the vertical Whin Sill escarpment. Beyond the falls the path passes the scattered settlement of Forest-in-Teesdale and continues into increasingly remote upper Teesdale to reach Langdon Beck. Accommodation is limited to a single option, the Langdon Beck Hotel, so booking ahead is essential during the main walking season.
The trail continues along the Tees to Cauldron Snout, a 180-metre cascade where careful scrambling alongside the falls leads up to the dam of Cow Green Reservoir. From the reservoir the route ascends the gently rising side valley of Maize Beck across exposed, wild moorland that can be wet and boggy, with navigation requiring care in poor visibility. Eventually the path reaches High Cup Nick — one of the most spectacular features of the entire Pennine Way, a vast U-shaped glaciated valley incised into the Whin Sill, with views stretching across the Eden Valley to the Lake District. The path follows the northern edge of the gorge before descending steeply down to pastures and the welcoming village of Dufton.
The most demanding day of the entire trail. From Dufton the route climbs steeply back onto the high fells, crossing Knock Fell at 794 metres and Great Dun Fell at 848 metres, topped by its incongruous radar station. After Little Dun Fell the path reaches Cross Fell at 893 metres — the highest point on the Pennine Way and the highest peak in the Pennines. The summit plateau is exposed and featureless, with a shelter cairn and trig point, and walkers may meet the Helm Wind, Britain's only named local wind. A long descent across moorland passes Greg's Hut, a useful emergency bothy, before dropping through rough pasture into the small village of Garrigill, where a hostel provides accommodation.
After yesterday's high crossing this is a comparatively easy valley day. From Garrigill the path follows the South Tyne downstream through pastoral farmland, the riverside walking offering welcome relief from the bleak fells. The trail enters Alston, the highest market town in England at around 300 metres, with shops, pubs and accommodation should you prefer to break the day there. Continuing down-valley the route passes Epiacum Roman Fort, whose distinctive earthwork ramparts remain clearly visible on the hillside, and reaches Slaggyford with its converted railway carriage café. Two kilometres further on, the day ends at the small village of Knarsdale, home to the Kirkstyle Inn — a welcome traditional pub for the night's stop.
From Knarsdale the trail crosses Lambley Common before leaving the South Tyne valley behind. After crossing the A689 the path climbs onto open moorland for the long traverse of Hartleyburn Common and Blenkinsopp Common — rough pasture, peat and heather laced with stone walls. The terrain is exposed and navigation needs care in poor visibility, particularly across the featureless central section. The route eventually descends from the moorland into the village of Greenhead, where the Pennine Way meets the Hadrian's Wall Path and the character of the trail changes completely. There is good accommodation in the village, making it a natural breakpoint before tomorrow's spectacular walking along Hadrian's Wall through some of Northumberland's finest landscapes.
A short, scenic half-day along Hadrian's Wall. Leaving Greenhead the trail passes Thirlwall Castle, a ruined medieval fortification built largely from robbed Wall stone, and runs close to the Magnis Roman Fort and Roman Army Museum. The route then follows the Wall closely, climbing past Aesica Roman Fort and the dramatic terrain of Cawfield Crags, where the Wall runs along high cliffs with commanding views across Northumberland. Beyond Caw Gap the path traverses Winshields Crags, the highest point on the entire length of Hadrian's Wall, before descending towards Once Brewed. With less than five hours of walking, this gives plenty of time to explore the nearby Sycamore Gap area and the Vindolanda Roman site in the afternoon.
The trail continues east along Hadrian's Wall to Sycamore Gap, where the famous solitary tree once stood in a dramatic dip in the Wall — new shoots have been spotted from the stump. The route follows Highshield Crags above Crag Lough and crosses Hotbank Crags before leaving the Wall at Rapishaw Gap and heading north into the moorland and farmland of Ridley Common. The path threads through patches of Wark Forest and a landscape of scattered farms, field walls and small streams, the going undulating and varied. Eventually the trail descends towards the North Tyne valley and the market town of Bellingham — an important resupply point and the last major settlement before the wild final stretch through the Cheviot Hills.
A long day across increasingly remote country. Leaving Bellingham the path heads northwards through farmland and onto open moorland, crossing exposed uplands of rough grass, heather and peat that are often wet and boggy underfoot. The landscape becomes progressively wilder as the trail leaves the North Tyne valley behind and there are few opportunities for shelter. The route eventually descends through forestry plantations to reach the small settlement of Byrness beside the A68 — the final piece of accommodation before the challenging crossing of the Cheviot Hills. Choices are limited to the well-known Forest View Walkers Inn, so booking ahead is essential. Resupply and a hearty meal here are important preparation for the demanding two days that follow.
The penultimate day begins the long Cheviot crossing — the most remote and committing section of the entire Pennine Way. From Byrness the path climbs steeply onto Byrness Hill and continues over Houx Hill and Ravens Knowe, following the undulating ridgeline north along the Border. The route passes the earthworks of Kemylpethe, a deserted medieval village, and the Yearning Saddle Refuge Hut on the approach to Lamb Hill — essential shelter in this exposed landscape. Beefstand Hill and Mozie Law follow before the trail reaches Windy Gyle at 619 metres, marked by a large ancient burial cairn. There is no accommodation here; a 3km descent off the ridge to Trows Farm requires a pre-arranged pickup to your accommodation.
The final, classic day of the Pennine Way. From Windy Gyle the route continues along the exposed Border Ridge, holding high ground with relentless undulating terrain past King's Seat and a junction at 743 metres where an out-and-back detour climbs the broad summit of The Cheviot. Beyond Auchope Cairn the path drops to the Auchope Mountain Refuge Hut before climbing The Schil at 601 metres and Black Hag at 549 metres. Grassy Steer Rig leads to White Law and the final descent across moorland joins a 2km section of road into Kirk Yetholm — the northern terminus of the trail. The Border Hotel traditionally offers completing walkers a free half-pint, well earned after 268 miles from Edale.
